We all know about shea Butter. I'm sure most of us have used products that contain shea butter- We all know its good for our skin, right- but why? Why is it in everything? Where does it come from? How is it sourced?
I have always had these questions and finally have the answers and for those who've been wondering like me, I am here to tell you the facts and WHY it's so popular and a main ingredient in a lot of skin care products. I'm going to give you the facts that our inquisitive minds ever so crave.
So lets take it to the very beginning of the process- The plant! The Shea Tree, also know as the Karite Tree, is an African-growing tree that's apart of the Sapotaceae family. They can grow anywhere from 7-15 meters and can reach up to 25 meters. It takes roughly 10-15 years for the shea tree to produce fruit and they can live up to be 300 years old! (because of their long lifespan these trees end up becoming generational and passed down through the family). You'd be able to find this tree growing in Senegal, and stretching all the way to Ethiopia and Uganda.
Because of the dry and hot climate, the Shea Tree has thick, cork-like bark which act as a barrier to keep it protected from the harsh element's. The leaves are oblong, thick, and clustered at the ends of the stout branches, and at full maturity the leaves will turn from a reddish to a deep, glossy green. The Flowers are a creamy white/yellow that appear during the dry season and are a vital source of nectar for Honeybees. The fruit is green and fleshy and almost looks like a plum. The pulp is sweet and edible but the Kernel is where we get out shea butter from. It's a hard round nut that's rich in fat.
- How is shea butter processed?
The fruit is harvested during the rainy seasons. It's mainly the fallen fruit to ensure sustainability (over-harvesting) and keep the integrity of the tree at its pique. Once the pulp and debris have all been washed and removed off the nut, its then set aside to be dried by either the sun or hot ovens to remove any moisture. Now that they've been thoroughly dried, its now ground into a paste (most often by hand and using traditional tools). They add water and continue kneading the paste. After kneading they then boil the paste to separate the oils and impurities then left to chill (Mind you, most often this is all done by hand. No machines. Stopping at this step would make it Unrefined). - What is the difference in between Raw and Refined shea butter?
Raw shea butter has its natural odor and colour. Full of natural vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, has more variation in appearance and texture. it retains all its natural properties. Refined shea butter is processed with Hexane and bleach to remove colour and odor. It becomes an ivory white, hard, and odorless. The consistent properties are due to the processing and the most beneficial properties are significantly reduced. - What makes shea butter so great for the skin?
Shea butter is a triglyceride; mainly oleic and stearic (45-50% Oleic, 30-41% Stearic, 5-9% Palmitic, and 4-5% Linoleic). the stearic acid gives it a solid consistency while the oleic acid influences how hard/soft the shea butter is, depending on ambient temperature. Beyond fatty acids, shea butter also contains Vitamin A, Vitamin E, Phytosterols, and phenolic compounds which enhances it's anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties making extremely nourishing for the skin.
~ Vitamin A increases cell production in our skin and stimulates the production of collagen
~ Vitamin E prevents cellular damage and boosts moisture. Majority is Alpha-tocopherols, 1 out of 8 forms of Vitamin E- making it the highest form of antioxidant activity.
Shea butter improves eczema and provides relief in irritated skin, rosacea, psoriasis, and general dermatitis because of the linoleic acid it contains reducing symptoms, is an emollient and fills the micro-cracks of the skin, seals in moisture while allowing the skin to breathe and providing a mild SPF of 3-4. It's rapid absorption, contains lipids that mimic those produced by our skin allowing to really sink in than sit on the surface. The presence of Triterpenes help stabilize the skin structure: collagen support- inhibits the enzymes that break down collagen, maintaining skin firmness. The Vitamin infusion act as an antioxidant, neutralizing "free radicals" hat cause premature wrinkles.
Shea butter can be beneficial to acne prone skin, especially when breakouts are linked to environmental factors or dehydration. Shea butter can help reduce breakouts by calming down the skin and supporting cell repair. It is a moderate comedogenic, so it may not be suitable for everyone, especially those prone to congestion, it can feel quite heavy if over-used. Use in small amounts and work in patches.
Though it should be noted that it is considered a fat, not a nut so it's "nut free" but does contain Latex so for people who are sensitive to Latex, should only use Refined.
Fun Fact, Shea butter is safe for consumption and can be used a cooking oil! It's an excellent provider of Vitamin's A, D, E, K, and essential fatty acids in a human diet! Vitamin A and E are very important antioxidants that are essential to cell membranes, nerve tissues, and steroid hormone formulation.
Its estimated that Ghana currently produces over 130,000 metric ton's of shea nuts annually!
Not only can you use it for skin nourishment and cooking, its used in lip and eye products, soap making, and hair products. It's such a versatile product, you can use it for many things!
It's very important to note that with the high demand of shea butter all over the world, we need to make sure we are sourcing it from places with Fare Trade Practices involved. Its a major lively hood for people in the industry and they deserve to be treated with respect and most importantly paid fairly.
